Used for centuries almost exclusively by Moroccan Berbers, in less than a decade, argan oil has hit the European and North American markets becoming the “new” high-end ingredient for culinary and cosmetic products.

Argan oil (a product of the argan tree) is rich in vitamin E, Omega 6, oleic acid, linocleic acid and is a mono-unsaturated fat. Cosmetically, it is used as a moisturizer for skin, hair and nails, either as oil alone or in soaps and creams. As a culinary oil, the flavour is distinctive, rich and nutty. It is used in salad dressing, for dipping bread, on couscous and flavouring porridge, but cannot be heated. Amlou – a paste made from almonds, argan oil and honey – is typically spread on toast.

The argan tree (Argania spinosa) is an ancient species native to southwestern Morocco. Only 8 to 10 metres high, it resembles a gnarled old olive tree but with thorns capable of lacerating anyone foolish enough to climb it. It lives 150 to 200 years, reaching fruiting maturity after 50 years.

The fruit, the size of a small apricot, has a tough husk covering pulpy flesh surrounding a very hard nut. The nut contains one (sometimes two or three) small, oil-rich kernels or seeds. The fruit takes over a year to mature, ripening and falling in June and July.

Extraction of argan oil is labour intensive. It takes 30kg of fruit and about 15 hours of labour to produce just one litre of oil. Argan fruits are first dried in the open air. Then the husk and fleshy pulp are removed. The nut itself is then cracked to obtain the oil-rich kernels. The kernel is broken open by tapping it between a large stone and a smaller hand-held one. Attempts to mechanize this process have been unsuccessful. Kernels to be used for food (i.e. culinary argan oil) are then gently roasted. After cooling, they are ground and pressed to obtain pure unfiltered argan oil. The oil is decanted into vessels. Leftover mash is used as cattle feed. Cosmetic argan oil is produced almost identically except the for skipping roasting step.

Traditionally, goats provided a much-appreciated labour-saving service: climbing the trees, eating the fruit, digesting the husk and leaving the kernels (minus the husk and the pulpy fruit) behind in their dung. These kernels were then collected from the goat dung, cleaned and processed. The goat’s involvement eliminated the first few steps of the process. Although undoubtedly organic, the goat stage of production is now frequently bypassed – in the interest of producing a “goat musk-free” taste or smell in the end product. But much of the rest of the process remains unchanged.

International demand has created a viable economy for local villages with 2 to 3 million people relying on it as a source of income. Many argan co-operatives have been established to provide economic and social benefits to rural women, offering them fair wages and hours to suit the needs of their family.

In Morocco, argan forests cover some 8,280 km² and are designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Their deep root systems enable them to colonize the desert fringes, making them a vitally important defense against desertification.

Sara Williams will be leading garden tours to Morocco (including to an argan cooperative), Turkey and Ireland in 2015. For more information, email ruth@worldwideecotours.com